MONTALCINO, Italy - Wandering the hilly, narrow cobblestone streets in our home base of Montalcino, a medieval city of interlocking passageways, steps and alleyways curving around and through and behind and beyond the main square, I reminded myself that I was walking through history spanning 800 years.
Whatever the village, be sure to walk off the main square to see where the people really live. Perusing 13th century corridors an arm's length wide, flanked on both sides by two- and three-story stone apartments, we eavesdropped on venues teeming with life. The back streets appear even more historic and colorful than the already-enthralling but more touristy central piazza.
